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941.376.2159

Coops Du Jour

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About Us

image442

in the beginning...

the last thing I wanted to do was build a coop so I shopped and read reviews, shopped more, and read more reviews until finally...

image443

time to design

My design criteria was;


  • conform to codes regarding "backyard" (residential) chicken keeping*
  • handle 4 hens easily
  • covered, secure run area
  • portable
  • as light as practical
  • as weather resistant and heavy duty as practical
  • as inexpensive as possible to build and sell considering the above criteria
  • Make it look like something I'd like to have in my backyard


image444

the explanations

initially when I started shopping for a coop my thought was to go up to about $300, preferably less. As I dug deeper I saw there were a lot of cute coops but when you started reading comments they were generally: 

"falls apart, had to replace the hardware" and "not big enough for chickens", among many others. 


So I started considering building again, thinking, "I could easily build a great one for less than $300.


After a couple hours considering what I'd need and the design (and the work), I raised my price point and started shopping again, 

but this time I was feeling really guilty about it.


Even up to the $500 price, still crap. Nicer looking crap but crap nonetheless. And I'd have to assemble it !


The problem with most was materials. 

When you get to the $700 and up price point you're finally getting to coops that are using better materials and are made in America, but most are simply larger versions with more bells. In other words, not getting better. 

and not designed as "backyard" coops.


image445

the details

 You can build lightweight, you can build weatherproof and you can build inexpensive. But doing all 3 requires compromise.


Aluminum and plastic are both weather resistant and lightweight but would cost a fortune to build and sell. 

The plastic, "rubbermaid" type coops are easy to build but small for their cost and having owned a rubbermaid shed, I know the panels curl from the Sun and become brittle over time.( a couple years)


Ultimately I settled on a combination of materials (listed on the home page) to achieve the best balance of strength, weight and cost.

 

To start, we pre-sand all the boards for a tighter fit. After screwing the frame together we silicone caulk all the joints, leaving the bottom of the joints uncaulked to allow moisture to escape. All the Stainless Steel screws are countersunk, the holes filled with wood filler and sanded, 

ready to paint or stain* (it's recommended to wait 4-6 months to paint or stain pressure treated wood. All  manufacture date are stamped in coops)


The side panels of the coop are screwed to the frame. The corner seams  are silicone caulked. Corner screws are caulked.  PVC trim is glued over screws and corners. The trim is then caulked further protecting against water intrusion 

The few remaining exposed screws on the coop are likewise 

silicone caulked and painted.


Open for suggestions

We know we didn't invent the wheel here,

 and we really don't want to reinvent it either.

If you have any thoughts or ideas as to how we can further improve, 

we're wide open for constructive comment

         

ideas?

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